With the left side 16105-431-672, and attachments. This 'rack' is for the early 1978 model BEFORE the California anti-pollution emmissions controls change over to to the 1978 771A Carbs. The 769A's have a #120 primary air and a #120 Idle air jet, instead of the later #140 air and #130 Idle Air which leaned the later 1978 out.
I have done many, many carburetors, with a GL1100 rack and 5 GL1000 racks done in the past week or so. These are all carburetors I have had shelved for many years, until I now have taken the time to review, rebuild and go through them. This 769A set is simply astounding. Amazing that this set has been on my shelves for nearly 20 years, and I was avoiding it because it was one black and oily mess. Imagine my astonishment when I found it in nearly pristine, stock, original condition inside, and that oily exterior saved the exterior finish. It is not collector-cleaned, I spent the 9 hours on it ensuring that it was good for operation.
When opened it looked like it had just came off of a clean running LOW-mile bike. There were no signs of corrosion, no varnish, NO plugged passages or jets: none: all clean and clear. The pictures of the interior (labelled so) were taken when the set was opened and before it was cleaned.
To ensure that I could certify that fact that all circuits and jets were good and clean, it was dismantled, all jets removed and checked. Not one was dirty. All o-rings soft and supple. All swivels, linkages free, clean and clear. The air pucks just dropped out easily like a new set would. Regardless, all the 'clearing' checking and interior cleaning tasks were done, the top CV caps cleaned and checked, the action of the CV caps and sliders checked, polished inside and out for proper operation. Each jet checked, high-pressure aired, all air and fuel passages received the same treatment.
Notes from the Bench: 1978 Carburetor Set (Inventory 6447-2025(5)) Model: 769AA
Float bowl pins polished and valve-base jet cleaned with polished seats. Float pin-towers checked, reamed very lightly to remove any sludge but not metal, all pins checked as good. Float valves checked for good operation: all good (looked new).
Needle jets: all excellent, looked new, cleaning not needed.
Sliders, caps: interior polished to proper operation. Exterior of caps: basic polish to check for damage. All good, including the original plastic cap-inserts. Those caps preserved with EZ-lube to keep them from drying out.
Bases, bottoms: Body excellent regards the float pin towers. No corrosion or varnish. Needle and fuel (emulsion, primary and secondary) towers: inspected, cleaned, all good. Fuel-air bypass port checked, cleaned, good.
Float bowl positions: all set at 21mm properly, all square and ready to run. That was the ONLY thing I found not correct on this set: two of the floats were out of proper setting by 1mm low.
All fuel and air passages soaked, cleaned, cleared.
Linkages: all good, all lubed, good to place (do not re-lubricate unless you are going to dismantle the linkages to clean for a show-bike: they have the best lube money can buy on them now. Lubricate in another 3 years).
Bodies cleaned to work on, but not brought to collector cleanliness: you want them perfect, or cleaner then they are, do that yourself. I have more than 9 picky and meticulous hours into these. A stiff toothbrush and a can of Honda Compression Cylinder cleaner will work wonders on the exterior if you want it better: do NOT leave the cleaner on for very long and wash off thoroughly to complete, to retain the stock finish. You should NOT remove of disturb the stock finish on the exterior: it reduces the value radically.
Idle jets: checked, and set at 1.5 turns: that should be done properly with the bike running, as well as having the linkage synched to have all carbs matched for fuel intake.
Bodies generally. All the base screws are good, and original like all of the hardware is.
Air cut-off: cleaned, inspected, checked as good.
No plenum air leakage noted: left it alone, other than soaking with EZ-lube to preserve it.
Air hoses: are quite good for the age. While the rack is off the bike, it is easy to replace them, but I don?t think it is needed it at this time. On the other hand, 160cc of fuel hose and 50cc of air hose is all it takes. All clamps are attached now. All cross-overs reconditioned with EZ lube.
Be prepared to re-set the idle screw on the bell when you start the bike. It is generally set now, but may be a high or low idle.
This set (and ANY set) MUST be synchronized to the bike before proper operation occurs. EVERY bike is different.
Generally, this is one astoundingly good set of 47 year old carbs that made it through the years in excellent interior condition and comparatively very good exteriors. I believe it is the first time they have been ?opened: all hardware aspects are stock, in good condition.
Maintenance in the future: At ANY time this bike will not be run for more than a month, put SeaFoam (2oz per 4 liters fuel) in the fuel, make sure it is run through into the carburetors. That will keep them clean, as well as all other components along the way: petcock, fuel-pump, and lines.
Full high-resolution pics available to serious inquiries. Note that the choke-cable clamp is not included: use your own, of let me know if you do not have one I shall try and locate one.
Only about 350 of 2850 of our available parts require tariffs to be paid when shipped to the USA. Prices for GL1000 parts [made in Japan], any GL1800 parts produced after 2010 [made in Japan] are higher for my American friends, and this is why:
Effective August 29 2025: No tariffs on Goldwing parts from models made from 1980 to 2010: they were made in the USA. Prices on parts from pre-1980 and post-2010 Goldwing models, to US citizens (of which I have over 6000 really great people as customers), now include a tariff-tax, a customs brokerage fee, and a per item Customs document admin fee.
The costs, when they apply, must paid BY THE SELLER ON BEHALF OF THE BUYER, on ALL goods NOT MADE IN THE USA. That is the new USA tariff tax as of Aug 29th 2025: and it is USA law, and is effectively a tax on all products not *Made in the USA*.
I have done many, many carburetors, with a GL1100 rack and 5 GL1000 racks done in the past week or so. These are all carburetors I have had shelved for many years, until I now have taken the time to review, rebuild and go through them. This 769A set is simply astounding. Amazing that this set has been on my shelves for nearly 20 years, and I was avoiding it because it was one black and oily mess. Imagine my astonishment when I found it in nearly pristine, stock, original condition inside, and that oily exterior saved the exterior finish. It is not collector-cleaned, I spent the 9 hours on it ensuring that it was good for operation.
When opened it looked like it had just came off of a clean running LOW-mile bike. There were no signs of corrosion, no varnish, NO plugged passages or jets: none: all clean and clear. The pictures of the interior (labelled so) were taken when the set was opened and before it was cleaned.
To ensure that I could certify that fact that all circuits and jets were good and clean, it was dismantled, all jets removed and checked. Not one was dirty. All o-rings soft and supple. All swivels, linkages free, clean and clear. The air pucks just dropped out easily like a new set would. Regardless, all the 'clearing' checking and interior cleaning tasks were done, the top CV caps cleaned and checked, the action of the CV caps and sliders checked, polished inside and out for proper operation. Each jet checked, high-pressure aired, all air and fuel passages received the same treatment.
Notes from the Bench: 1978 Carburetor Set (Inventory 6447-2025(5)) Model: 769AA
Float bowl pins polished and valve-base jet cleaned with polished seats. Float pin-towers checked, reamed very lightly to remove any sludge but not metal, all pins checked as good. Float valves checked for good operation: all good (looked new).
Needle jets: all excellent, looked new, cleaning not needed.
Sliders, caps: interior polished to proper operation. Exterior of caps: basic polish to check for damage. All good, including the original plastic cap-inserts. Those caps preserved with EZ-lube to keep them from drying out.
Bases, bottoms: Body excellent regards the float pin towers. No corrosion or varnish. Needle and fuel (emulsion, primary and secondary) towers: inspected, cleaned, all good. Fuel-air bypass port checked, cleaned, good.
Float bowl positions: all set at 21mm properly, all square and ready to run. That was the ONLY thing I found not correct on this set: two of the floats were out of proper setting by 1mm low.
All fuel and air passages soaked, cleaned, cleared.
Linkages: all good, all lubed, good to place (do not re-lubricate unless you are going to dismantle the linkages to clean for a show-bike: they have the best lube money can buy on them now. Lubricate in another 3 years).
Bodies cleaned to work on, but not brought to collector cleanliness: you want them perfect, or cleaner then they are, do that yourself. I have more than 9 picky and meticulous hours into these. A stiff toothbrush and a can of Honda Compression Cylinder cleaner will work wonders on the exterior if you want it better: do NOT leave the cleaner on for very long and wash off thoroughly to complete, to retain the stock finish. You should NOT remove of disturb the stock finish on the exterior: it reduces the value radically.
Idle jets: checked, and set at 1.5 turns: that should be done properly with the bike running, as well as having the linkage synched to have all carbs matched for fuel intake.
Bodies generally. All the base screws are good, and original like all of the hardware is.
Air cut-off: cleaned, inspected, checked as good.
No plenum air leakage noted: left it alone, other than soaking with EZ-lube to preserve it.
Air hoses: are quite good for the age. While the rack is off the bike, it is easy to replace them, but I don?t think it is needed it at this time. On the other hand, 160cc of fuel hose and 50cc of air hose is all it takes. All clamps are attached now. All cross-overs reconditioned with EZ lube.
Be prepared to re-set the idle screw on the bell when you start the bike. It is generally set now, but may be a high or low idle.
This set (and ANY set) MUST be synchronized to the bike before proper operation occurs. EVERY bike is different.
Generally, this is one astoundingly good set of 47 year old carbs that made it through the years in excellent interior condition and comparatively very good exteriors. I believe it is the first time they have been ?opened: all hardware aspects are stock, in good condition.
Maintenance in the future: At ANY time this bike will not be run for more than a month, put SeaFoam (2oz per 4 liters fuel) in the fuel, make sure it is run through into the carburetors. That will keep them clean, as well as all other components along the way: petcock, fuel-pump, and lines.
Full high-resolution pics available to serious inquiries. Note that the choke-cable clamp is not included: use your own, of let me know if you do not have one I shall try and locate one.
USA REQUIRED TARIFFS ARE INCLUDED IN THE PRICE, NO duties due at delivery
PLEASE NOTE: Regardless whether the part attracts a tariff or not, we have REDUCED ALL PRICING by 35%, so there are some extremely good deals happening.Only about 350 of 2850 of our available parts require tariffs to be paid when shipped to the USA. Prices for GL1000 parts [made in Japan], any GL1800 parts produced after 2010 [made in Japan] are higher for my American friends, and this is why:
Effective August 29 2025: No tariffs on Goldwing parts from models made from 1980 to 2010: they were made in the USA. Prices on parts from pre-1980 and post-2010 Goldwing models, to US citizens (of which I have over 6000 really great people as customers), now include a tariff-tax, a customs brokerage fee, and a per item Customs document admin fee.
The costs, when they apply, must paid BY THE SELLER ON BEHALF OF THE BUYER, on ALL goods NOT MADE IN THE USA. That is the new USA tariff tax as of Aug 29th 2025: and it is USA law, and is effectively a tax on all products not *Made in the USA*.
OTHERS: PLEASE NOTE :
All customers outside of the USA who are buying "TARIFFED" items on the Straightwings site WILL BE REFUNDED 30% of the ITEM PRICE to remove those added costs, after purchase, based on your country which is not the USA.
Just buy what you need and we will refund the amount as above. We are working hard to encode the variances in our site-programming to segregate the pricing between the countries to account for the tariff taxes which may be due as is mandated by the US government but not other countries.
It is a very expensive and time-costly effort for us to help all *Goldwingers* to obtain often-rare parts when you are in the USA, but as well to be fair to all the buyers in outside the USA who are not subjected to that tax: but I will NOT desert my USA clients. I have worked hard for 25 years to make available quality parts which aid Goldwing riders. While the tariffs are most unfortunate between neighbours, the parts we sell are still great parts, properly assessed, at the fairest price possible. I hope all my USA customers understand this, and continue to patronize StraightWings, a premier Goldwing quality used parts site.
GL1000 GL1100 GL1200 Vintage parts Used and New
